Sunday, February 28, 2016

R #Saris_A2Z

#Saris_A2Z today lets explore into the 'r' saris. I have looked hard and come up with this one name. Seek help and and advise from all you sari lovers for help. Pls add to the list. 'Rasipuram saris...'
Seetha was the savior in disguise this time. She lent her 'r'asipuram sari for the shoot..
Rasipuram saris are manufactured in Southern part of India. The silk saris from this place are very popular. The cottons here
have a very unique structure like silk, it is washable as it is pure cotton sari. It does come with very bright gold Zari work border with grand pallu.
#iluvsaris Demure Drapes

Thursday, February 25, 2016

Story of a Sari #Saris_A2Z

Hi DemureDrapes...
"Swarnachari are regal, legacy saris from the stable of Balucharis. In yester years, each piece was almost akin to sculpting a rare piece of art and often handed over generations to be adorned on important occasions. 
I have tried my best,  telling the story of the Swarnachari as I saw with eyes and heart.
Thanks
Amrita...

Story of a Swarnachari...
"Maya and Me

"Don't touch me". 
Who was that? A startled Maya turned around.  Nobody ever came to this inner most boudoir. It was her grandma's. Now that she was no more, it was rarely opened, other than when her mom got it cleaned. She had come here today very excitedly because her mom just told her that she could wear her grandma's Swarnachari sari on her wedding day. Though there were three more equally beautiful saris, her parents had bought, she had begged her mom to let her wear her grandma's Swarnachari for the pheras.

Turning back again,  she found no one there. So she tugged at the Swarnachari. " I said don't pull me like that". Maya slumped to the floor, pale with fear. " Who r you ? Why don't you reveal yurself". 

"I'm your Swarnachari. I have been lying here peacefully for several years. Nobody  dared to wake me up, without being gentle. You could have  hurt me the way you pulled me. And by the ways...
Do u really want me to reveal my story?"

"Yes, yes, please do. I didn't mean to be rough. I'm sorry. It's just that I was so excited to see you. My grandmom looked an angel when you hugged her skin. My mom too glowed in your bright colors. I have always dreamt of you hugging me on my big day. So..."

" O.k. Then listen. Mine's a long story. I will cut it short for you.
When my yarns were ready to be woven, I heaved a sigh of relief. Readying the yarns had stretched me out. I was tired to my innards. It had been several days that the weavers stretched me to be ready for your grandma. I was being made specially for her and I found succour in that fact. So  I lay stretched out, pulled at, day in and day out, for a couple weeks.  You see, I had look beautiful. But the weavers at Bishnupur weren't done with me. They thought that I had to be softer. Can you believe it, I was boiled in a solution of soda & soap. Uhh. I don't even want to tell you how I felt then. And then!!!! I was put in acid to be dyed this rose color. So not fair!, Maya"

" Ooh,  I'm sorry about that too. But  I love your deep rose hue. Akash will swoon again , when he sees me draped by you. Just like on the first day he met me in our college canteen. 
You know why? Even on that day, I was wearing a deep rose colored T. And he cud not take his eyes off me, " drooled Maya.

" What about these very special gold threads that run through me, contrasted by  the shiny blacks? They too were made specially for your grandmom.  Oh. How I remember her. Those wavy, silky tresses. Always neatly done when not open and flying gently in the breeze. She was such a beautiful lady. We were like,  as they say, made for each other. On the day of her wedding, when everybody was besotted by her beauty, she shyly thanked me for making her look pretty. I was so happy for her. We talked to each other, radiant with joy. The rose in her cheeks and my rosiness, shyly merging with each other.
And your mom. I saw her from her birth. She was such a naughty child!"

"Really? I can't imagine mom naughty. She is always so correct. So disciplined. Patient. Caring...et al. ....huh.. I can't stop when it comes to mom," asked  Maya surprisedly. 

"Sweetheart, that's your mom now. Wish you had seen her as a kid. You are not a patch on her. But .....I kinda like your confidence, your clear thoughts. Your knowing your mind, with very few doubts. You are smart for the few years behind you."
" But before, I forget, I must tell you the rest of my story. You see this part of me, the pallu. Can you see, they tell you many stories. Stories from the grand epic Mahabharata. Stories that are still as relevant as then. Stories you must ponder on, at some point in your life. See here. It's when Krishna comes to speak to Karna, the great Angaraj that he was no sutaputra. He was the son of the mighty Surya & mother Kunti. And see just next to it. Kunti imploring Karna to desist from the battle and spare the lives of his brothers, the Pandavas. He was a great man, bravest of the braves. Yet he was bitter about being called a sutaputra. But imagine, he was floating in the river. Abandoned. And  his charioteer dad, Adhirath and foster mother Radha took him to their home and loved him dearly. He rose to be king of Anga . Only if he had looked at  the beneficence of Destiny and been more grateful, he would not have been on, what many believe, the wrong side of history.  What a learning for us from a great life. 
There's so much in these shimmering threads. Stories so eloquently woven, isnt it, Maya? 
I love this part of mine. I'm not just your wedding sari, the Swarnachari. I'm your friend, philosopher & guide. Whenever you need me, I will take you in my folds. Come, let me hug you, cocooned by my motherly love, another young girl will start her greatest journey. It's my greatest joy."
Maya hugged Swarnachari. This time gently. She could ' feel' her grandma's love."

Wednesday, February 24, 2016

P #Saris_A2Z

#Saris_A2Z this throwback thursday let's learn together about saris which begin with the letter 'P'. 

I love my paithani which I bought from Kasturi. I have used the paithani for this photoshoot. 
Now for gyan time~
Paithani is a sari made of silk and zari. It's a variety of sari, named after the Paithan town in Aurangabad Maharashtra state where they are woven by hand. 
It is a plain weave, with weft figuring designs according to the principles of tapestry.   Paithani evolved from a cotton base to a silk base. Silk was used in weft designs and in the borders, whereas cotton was used in the body of the fabric. Present day Paithani has no trace of cotton. Paithani is characterised by borders of an oblique square design, and a pallu. Plain as well as spotted designs are available. Among other varieties, single colored and kaleidoscope-colored designs are also popular. The kaleidoscopic effect is achieved by using one color for weaving lengthwise and another for weaving widthwise.




Pavani shares this lovely message with this beautiful click, in a 'P'aithani~
"Paithani, is an exclusive Maharastian Sari with Peacock Motifs and hence the Name for The Silk sari.

In The Pic, is my NARAYANEEYAM GURU, Revathy Ramesh.
She is a Volunteer Teacher for Narayaneeyam, Sunderakand, Paduka Sahastranamam ,& Vishnu Sahastranamam etc., depending upon interest of students . We Are Really Lucky to get a GURU like her, who gives selfless service happily since 8 years in Melville park, Simei.

Want to Post this Beautiful picture of our GURU in Paithani as a Token of Respect of our Class on DemureDrapes."


Another sari with letter 'p', 'p'ochampally.
Pochampally Sari  is made in Bhoodan Pochampally. They are popular for their traditional geometric patterns in Ikat style of dyeing. The intricate geometric design find their way into the hands of skilled weavers and make it to the market as beautiful saris. Pochampally Ikat uniqueness lies in the transfer of intricate design and colouring onto warp and weft threads first and then weave them together globally known as double ikat textiles. The fabric is cotton, silk and sico – a mix of exquisite silk and cotton. Increasingly, the colours themselves are from natural sources and their blends. 
#iluvsaris @DemureDrapes




#SariSistas

Amrita shares this picture of hers, with the painting of three sisters at the back, from Lagos, Nigeria...

"Love thy Sister as thyself

The sky was overcast with ominous dark clouds. Once in a while torn asunder by a blinding streak of light, followed by  deafening thunder. Bela had to reach Mumbai , some three hundred kms away. It was her first job and she was excited to join. Now this terrible impending storm. Was it alright to set out? With all these thoughts rushing through her mind,  she looked at older sister, Sreya, wondering what would she advise. Sreya doted on her li'l sis. She looked tenderly at her and knew that despite the storm, this journey had to be made.  
Sending a quick prayer to heaven, both sisters set out. Sreya took the wheels of the car, leaving Bela engrossed with her ponderings about her new job. They had gone only for a little while, when the skies opened up and it poured like never before. The visibility dropped to near zero. It was nearly impossible to drive on. So Sreya pulled the car on what she thought was the shoulder off the road. Hoping to resume whence the storm abated. 

She was stoical, conscious that her sis should not be frightened by the storm , her spirits not dampened before the new dawn that awaited her young life. She decided to bide her time in the car by humming songs. So it was , " humko mann ka shakti dena, mann vijay karo.." And with merry abruptness, it was also, " hum tum ek kamre mein band ho, aur chaabi kho jaye...". Though the mood was more like, " hum tum ek car mein trapped ho jaye..aur afat ho jaye......".
Suddenly there was a deafening sound. ...

Bela woke up in a hospital room. A nurse was peering over her with concerned eyes. She enquired about her health. Bela said she felt only a little limp but wasn't feeling so bad, despite a fractured arm. Then she begged to know how Sreya was. The nurse held her gently & said, " the other girl had hugged you in a tight embrace when the truck crashed into your car and  her body had taken the entire impact. "
So, how's she now"? screamed Bela crumbling into a heap. She sobbed that she didn't want her life if anything had happened to Sreya. The nurse again held her gently, " your sister had a dying wish which she whispered only to me". "She wants you to be very successful and happy in your new job".  Bela was about to scream a vehement "No", when she heard the  nurse's calm & commanding voice once more,  " Do it for your sister, if not for yourself". Your greatest tribute to her sisterly love""

I requested Amrita to write me something small, for my segment starting this February. #SariSistas an ode to every sister out there. She came up with this beautiful piece. 
#iluvsaris

Monday, February 22, 2016

O #Saris_A2Z

#Saris_A2Z let's explore the 'O' word today for saris. 'Odisa' saris~

Orissa handloom silks are traditional handloom fabrics made from mulberry silk and Tussar silk through the fine use of ikat and supplementary thread work. 

The exclusive Bomkai Saris employ the ikat style of tie-dye, where the threads are dyed with contrasting colours before they are woven with a special ‘extra weft’ technique. This traditional art uses vegetable dyes to a large extent, with a leaning toward artificial colours in present day creations. Black, yellow, orange, maroon, are the preferred hues. Motif patterns commonly adorning the fabric are bitter gourd, the atasi flower, the kanti-phul or small flower, peacocks and birds, Konark temple, conches. The use of bright coloured panels with extra motifs on a contrasting colour background is a unique and attractive feature.

The Sambalpuri Silk Saris are akin to the Bomkai saris though they make more use of geometrical patterns. Shanka, chakra, or floral pattern motifs may also be seen on the base fabric, with designer colours and patterns chosen to provide the traditionally woven sari, the modern look. 

Berhampuri saris are made in coastal Orissa; they are most often woven in silk, and silk Behrampuri saris are referred to as Berhampuri patta. Silk weaving is said to have begun at Berhampur in the 14th century although the history of Berhampuri saris is confused: these saris are also associated with the Mohuri kingdom which lay between the Rushikulya and Bahuda rivers: the Gajapati King Purushottama Deva who ruled Kalinga from 1466–97 is said to have ‘founded’ the Mohuri kingdom with a grant of land to Sana Raja. Much later, the Mohuri King Harihar Narayan Deb who ruled between 1772 and 1782 is believed to have convinced weavers from Rajmundhry in nearby Andhra Pradesh to migrate to his kingdom; these weavers of the Deras community, also known as Debangas, are credited with not only bringing the Behrampuri sari to its current form but also for introducing to the area worship of the goddess Budhi Santani Thakurani who is believed by some to be the goddess Kali’s sister.

Although Berhampuri saris woven in silk are most well known, these Berhampuri weavers also work in cotton, and tussar. The saris often feature a temple design (which could be anything between less than an inch high to more than a foot wide) along the border: either phoda kumbha or badhi kumbha. Phoda kumbha refers to temple spires, and weaving the design into the saris takes two weavers; badhi kumbha, on the other hand, is created using Ikat which rarely features serrated lines. The saris tend to be in extremely bright colours with contrasting borders, and, when they’re woven in silk, 2 ply malda is most often used. All of them are reversible.

Orissa Handloom Silks make use of tribal art hand painting which significantly enhances the appeal of the already splendid-looking sari.

An ode to Demure Drapes

An Ode to Demure Drapes

Nationhood is ..........., screams Charkha  Dutt
No, that's your nation not mine, .......thunders Gaurav Goswami
We shiver, we crumple, we are fleetingly numb
Yet  your noise can't make us deaf or dumb.
U define our nation, .........and what counts as  nationhood?
Where lies your nation making?
In building blocks of TRP?

Flip the pages of history, look how all of us lived.
The muga blossomed near the jamdani,
The kantha bonded with tasser.
The kanjeevarams beckoned the Benarasis
The bandhni danced with Maheshwaris 
The ikat etched friendship with paithani 
The garod glorified the Parsi Gara 

Demureness is our legacy
India's glorious tradition
No matter where we lived.
No matter what we draped.
Demureness was in valour
Of great queens of Malwa,Jhansi, Chittor
Demureness was in grandeur
Demureness was in splendour
Of great queens of Jaipur, Trichy, Mysore...


Come, Demure Drapes, rise  and shine ever brighter
Tell our sisters , brothers
The weft and warp of our culture
The threads that wove us together.
beautiful Kashmir, Kutch with Tripura
Patiala, Punj and Chapra.
Drown  noises that tear us, break our hearts asunder 
Do we need their homilies, ugly preachment for candor...
Amrita Chakraborty 

T #Saris_A2Z

#Saris_A2Z I know like me many of you have been awaiting the Sunday special. Well the maestro had woven her 🕸 web and created her magic! It was me who could not come up with a suitable picture for her story😢 
Just created some Tant magic graphically on a bed of saris to go witAmrita Chakrabortyty beautiful Sunday special sari story. So grab ur ☕️ and  delve deeper into the tant's tryst...

"Tant's Tryst with Destiny

The year was 1945, the British had relentlessly hurt the tant weavers of Bengal for over a century now  by opening the flood gates of cheaper textiles from Manchester and other parts of United Kingdom. The brilliant  craftsmanship of Tant was losing perilously to imported textile. These famed handloom weavers, whose muslin and other vibrant drapes were the pride of the greatest empires of medieval Europe and Western Asia were not only losing out their export markets, even Indian households were substituting them ever increasingly.The Tant weavers of  Bengal  known for their fineness and finesse,were not being able to compete and the weavers had turned into an impoverished lot.  Prompting even Karl Marx to exclaim, " the  British intruder broke up the Indian handloom and destroyed the spinning wheel” 

It was 9 at night, in the once glorious weavers' village of Shantipur, late enough for everybody in the village to have retired to bed. Sixteen year old Mira was still helping her father while hearing stories from the past . Gajananda worked late on the handloom trying to weave a bit more before sleep  overtook him. He doted on his only daughter, often feeling deeply guilty that despite being brighter than his four sons, he had not been able to send her to school. As  a Tant weaver, he could barely make ends meet for his family of seven. Mira would always be helping him with his loom. She had no other interests  like the other girls her age. Villagers would joke with Gajanand. " Arre, Gaja, guess you have given Mira in marriage to  your handloom. She's always sitting beside it; keeping it in shape, working on it day in and day out, admiring every aspect of it.............Haha..............your daughter is in love with it, eh?............like the Rani Mirabai was in love with her Gopal!" Gaja would rarely get into an argument with them. The villagers had helped him when he was in dire straits; only if they understood his Mira, he would think wistfully. 

"Baba, you weave these Tant saris so painstakingly. Many of them are on special order from that mahajan Jadunath from Howrah. After days of nurturing lifeless grey yarn, they bloom to life as vibrant saris, look so enchanting that I cry every time you have to pack them off. 
Yet you don't have the money for your persistent cough. Ma has a backache that tears her, we can't treat her too. Moreover"......, Mira continued,somehow restraining her choked emotions "Ma has never got to wear the best pieces you weave. Yet when mahajan mahasaya comes, he gets those glossy brochures of beautiful designs that are to be made on order for  rich women. You toil so hard to make each piece. Jadunath babu laps it up. Orders more, brighter and better designs, more sensuous colors. But we never make enough to have the essentials, forget a good life. Is it fair?" Gaja looked at Mira with moist eyes. What could he explain  to this young girl!
" You know, I'm Mira. And like the Rani Mirabai despite being married to the prince of the great kingdom of Chittor,carrying out many wifely duties , stayed devoted to her Gopal; I too declare my lifelong devotion  for the Tant. Please, baba, you understand me nah. Ma doesn't...."..Mira's voice trailed off wistfully.  
Gaja heard himself telling her, "  even poison from Rana Sanga's palace couldn't kill Mirabai or her devotion. Rather the fragrance of her devotion spread far and wide. So much so, even the great emperor Akbar came to see her in the guise of a beggar. He was so moved by her that while leaving , he lay a necklace at her feet made of pure gold and diamonds..." 

It wasn't long before  Gaja got Harish's proposal for Mira's hand. Harish, despite being a poor weaver's son had studied diligently,coming out with top honors   in the matriculation exams. He was the only one from Shantipur ever to receive a government scholarship to study law in Kolkata. And had just finished graduation and received an internship of a handsome amount of fifty rupees when his marriage was fixed with Mira. Gaja was over the moon that Harish had chosen his daughter to be his bride. When he broke the news to Mira, she was a bit sad that she had to leave her Baba , their beloved loom and its lively creations. But when Gaja quickly promised that he would create the best pieces yet to be made by him to gift her, she was overcome by childlike glee.

Father, daughter toiled everyday to create the prettiest pieces ever made on muslin and tant. The yarns were dyed bright reds, yellows. Each thread was woven with utmost love, to create thick , rich pallus with large floral motifs and the body into finest muslin ever woven by Gaja. The sheer translucence of muslin gave the saris an ethereal radiance. Days merged into weeks; weeks into months. However, the day his priceless gifts were completed, Gaja fell ill with high fever. The family searched for every forgotten penny at home, digging deep inside the barrel of rice as near the Tulsi in the backyard. But they still couldn't afford his treatment. The day mahajan Jadunath came, Mira, with her eyes brimming with tears , quietly gave away  her gifts to get the maximum possible for her beloved baba's treatment. When Gaja heard of it, he was heartbroken and passed away in great shock. An year passed by in sombre , lifeless days. Then Mira was married off in a simple ceremony, frugally arranged by her widowed mother. 
Harish and she set their heart to set up the Gajanand Cooperative Society, GCS, a first in Shantipur and amongst Indian  weavers. The weavers could now access better quality yarn, brighter and a variety of better quality colors. The reeds were never again rickety, falling apart; they were always replaced promptly. The looms were now made of teak wood, with a cemented seat where the these unheralded masters could sit comfortably as they wove their magic. They were  no longer  dependent on middlemen like Jadunath to sell their master pieces. The cooperative sold it for them at best prices. They were once again beginning to hold their head high in the world stage. Mira had ensured that there never would be another father in Shantipur who would die brokenhearted if he wanted to share his fabulous craft with his daughters instead of customers.
Mira had just finished her day's work at GCS ,which she always did with exemplary conviction and devotion. It was a breezy winter evening in 1965, she was walking back home, hearing  baba's gentle voice within her sing Mirabai's bhajan:
'This infamy, O my Prince is delicious!
Some revile me,others applaud,
O Mira’s Lord is noble and dark
I simply follow my incomprehensible road.............' "