Wednesday, February 10, 2016

D #Saris_A2Z

#Saris_A2Z next features saris with alphabet 'D'. 

The centuries-old Dhakai Jamdani weaving tradition which originated in Dhaka, Bangladesh is today carried forward in West Bengal as well. These are feather-light and sheer saris, with fine motifs woven all over the body giving it a luxurious and grand finish. The Dhakai Jamdani was originally woven on Muslin. The weave is done in a way that feels like the motifs are embroidered on the base fabric. The most distinctive feature of the Dhakai Jamdani is the use of geometry in its motifs. The traditional art of weaving dhakai has been declared by UNESCO as a Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.


A Dharmavaram often referred to as 'a daily wear kanjeevaram' is very similar to a kanjivaram. A Dharmavaram is made using tested ‘zari’ hence the lower cost. Dharmavaram Saris  are woven in the interlocked-weft technique. The design required on the sari is initially drawn on computer and then punched into a card. These cards are then loaded in Jacard in the loom. First the yarn is loaded as warp and then loaded into the loom. The weavers use both their hands and legs to weave the Sari.  It requires approximately 4-8 days of continuous efforts of two persons for weaving a sari depending on the variety of the sari being weaved. The specialty of being woven in two colors that give an effect of muted double shades accentuated by the solid color border and pallu is the distinct feature of a dharmavaram. 
 This is a jewel! Here is a lovely girl wearing her grandma's 53 year old Dharmavaram sari bought in Mysore in 1962 for Rs 242. The pallu is super-exquisite and very rare and unique for that time..notice the sheen is so well preserved! Sending a magnification of the arty pallu motif too. 

The name Dhokra  was initially used to indicate a group of nomadic craftsmen.  Dhokra, known as “Bharai kaam”, is the art of sculpting brass with the ancient technique of lost wax casting. The tribals of Madhya Pradesh are famous for their imaginative and creative dhokra. Unfortunately I am unable to dig more info on this type of saris. Pictures galore on online sari sites, minus any input relevant for this post. 

In Dhaniakhali block every household has at least one loom. The sari produced here is named after the place. The material for the Dhaniakhali sari is somewhat coarse and heavier than other textiles from Bengal but suits the middle class budget and as such is popular. An ordinary Dhaniakhali sari takes a minimum of two days to be woven, and the most exotic ones take four to five days to weave.  

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