O #Saris_A2Z

#Saris_A2Z let's explore the 'O' word today for saris. 'Odisa' saris~

Orissa handloom silks are traditional handloom fabrics made from mulberry silk and Tussar silk through the fine use of ikat and supplementary thread work. 

The exclusive Bomkai Saris employ the ikat style of tie-dye, where the threads are dyed with contrasting colours before they are woven with a special ‘extra weft’ technique. This traditional art uses vegetable dyes to a large extent, with a leaning toward artificial colours in present day creations. Black, yellow, orange, maroon, are the preferred hues. Motif patterns commonly adorning the fabric are bitter gourd, the atasi flower, the kanti-phul or small flower, peacocks and birds, Konark temple, conches. The use of bright coloured panels with extra motifs on a contrasting colour background is a unique and attractive feature.

The Sambalpuri Silk Saris are akin to the Bomkai saris though they make more use of geometrical patterns. Shanka, chakra, or floral pattern motifs may also be seen on the base fabric, with designer colours and patterns chosen to provide the traditionally woven sari, the modern look. 

Berhampuri saris are made in coastal Orissa; they are most often woven in silk, and silk Behrampuri saris are referred to as Berhampuri patta. Silk weaving is said to have begun at Berhampur in the 14th century although the history of Berhampuri saris is confused: these saris are also associated with the Mohuri kingdom which lay between the Rushikulya and Bahuda rivers: the Gajapati King Purushottama Deva who ruled Kalinga from 1466–97 is said to have ‘founded’ the Mohuri kingdom with a grant of land to Sana Raja. Much later, the Mohuri King Harihar Narayan Deb who ruled between 1772 and 1782 is believed to have convinced weavers from Rajmundhry in nearby Andhra Pradesh to migrate to his kingdom; these weavers of the Deras community, also known as Debangas, are credited with not only bringing the Behrampuri sari to its current form but also for introducing to the area worship of the goddess Budhi Santani Thakurani who is believed by some to be the goddess Kali’s sister.

Although Berhampuri saris woven in silk are most well known, these Berhampuri weavers also work in cotton, and tussar. The saris often feature a temple design (which could be anything between less than an inch high to more than a foot wide) along the border: either phoda kumbha or badhi kumbha. Phoda kumbha refers to temple spires, and weaving the design into the saris takes two weavers; badhi kumbha, on the other hand, is created using Ikat which rarely features serrated lines. The saris tend to be in extremely bright colours with contrasting borders, and, when they’re woven in silk, 2 ply malda is most often used. All of them are reversible.

Orissa Handloom Silks make use of tribal art hand painting which significantly enhances the appeal of the already splendid-looking sari.